To travel with and for the church in Malawi is to gather a heart-ful of contrasting images: the basic houses with mud walls and thatched roofs beside modern high-rise buildings; dusty, rutted tracks called ‘roads’ and Mercedes Benz cars; poor, hungry people sharing generously with visitors; beautiful sunny skies and astounding views of star-filled night skies above trees stripped of bark, and land baked dry, hard, and unyielding; joy-filled faith even in the midst of illness, death, and grief. During the 14 days that the WMS Exposure Tour Group spent in the Blantyre Synod area of Malawi, they experienced it all.
Travelling with the church provides a perspective unavailable to the average tourist. Because of the long partnership between The Presbyterian Church in Canada (PCC) and the Church of Central Africa Presbyterian (CCAP), the group had the chance to visit the homes of average Malawians, view first-hand the development work of the church, and share worship and fellowship time with brothers and sisters in Christ. The women of the WMS group came from communities across Canada and were able to deliver some gifts that are tokens of the care and concern of Canadian Presbyterians for our Malawian brothers and sisters. In Christ we are all one and the experience of sharing life in Malawi, even for this brief time, helped participants understand more about the need for justice in the world.
One of the phrases often used by Malawians is ‘little by little’. Sometimes it is difficult to see so much poverty, so much need, so many barriers to abundant life. The following comments, taken from the group’s communal journal, describe some of the need and some of the little bits of success being made in the struggle for development. It is hoped that the story of this trip will convey some of the power of ‘being there’ and some of the dilemma of being concerned enough to care deeply about our partners, yet feeling overwhelmed by the magnitude of problems of a country as poor as Malawi.
Thursday
Our first stop was the Synod Office where one of our hosts Glenn Inglis introduced the development department staff who gave us an over-view of their work. They deal with concerns about health, vulnerable children, violence, and gender issues. As a WMS member I was proud when they mentioned that PWS&D contributes $55,000* per year to the work here.
Travelling to the near-by Children’s Centre we played games and sang songs with some of the youngest Malawians. Our reward was a sea of smiles which will remain in my heart as one of God’s special gifts to me. Another special time today was when we were able to give each child an Izzie doll. We thank the ladies who knitted them as we enjoyed the pleasure each child showed as they received one.
Pictures won’t do the day justice; however, they may give a bit of flavour to the day. My hope is to share with people at home the depth of the needs and the simple joys we are seeing here.
*This is the figure for the PWS&D contribution to one project in the Titikulane Ana area. Total grants to the Blantyre Synod for 2009 are approximately $107,000. See PWS&D Annual Report for further details.
Saturday
We were greeted at Dzunga Church with women singing a welcome song—as has been the case in every location so far! There are 36 churches divided into eight parishes in Blantyre North Presbytery. There are only eight ministers to serve these congregations. Much of the preaching is offered by elders. We met with the women of the Mvano (Women’s Guild) all dressed in their black-and-white uniforms.
Monday
We visited the Apatsa school which was tidy and well maintained, despite being a very basic structure. We were entertained by rhymes and poems recited by the younger children and a drama presentation by the older boys and girls. Their message was that orphaned children deserve and should be given the same love and opportunities as children with parents.
What fun it was to be able to share a little bit of joy by presenting ten soccer balls, donated by a member of a congregation in BC!
At Mulanje Hospital, the maternity ward was high on our list because several bags of knitting had been brought by our group. Dr. Dr Roland van de Ven explained how the simple intervention of providing a temperature-controlled area, warm enough for the babies born too early, has increased the survival rate for these precious newborns. There were five preemies in the ward that day, including two sets of twins.
Sights, sounds, feelings, and emotions are overwhelming—but over and through it all was a sense of joy. God bless His people here in Africa and help us to remain faithful in prayer and in action.
Tuesday
On the way to the village of Kuchombe, our bus met with misfortune on a rocky slope, and its back bumper was severely dented. Cramming into the alternative transport that finally came to save us, we continued on to the village, arriving more than three hours late. Would I have stayed around at my church to wait for someone that late? No matter—we were met by women and children enthusiastically singing and dancing to welcome us. After Druse’s apology on our behalf, we were welcomed by a gracious woman leader who encouraged us to introduce ourselves. The village chief, another woman, then made a memorable comment: “Through these introductions comes freedom, a special freedom to relate in a meaningful way.”
Wednesday
One can’t visit Africa without experiencing something of the wildlife! We arrived in the beautiful Chinguini Hills and enjoyed an early evening drive around Liwondi Park. We saw many birds, including doves, guinea fowl, spoon bill stork, and many weaver nests hanging from the tree branches. We were able to see water bucks, antelope and impala, and monkeys.
Then, one jeep blew a tire. There was no spanner (wrench) in either jeep! It was probably a good thing that we didn’t know how nervous our guides were about us being stranded after dark! Not knowing that we should be afraid, we were awed by the beautiful night sky full of so many stars, including even some shooting stars!
Sunday
Members of the group were billeted for one night. Here are two very different stories: Today, I saw another side of Malawi. My host family, Samuel and Cathy, own a private boarding school; therefore, they are part of a very small percentage of Malawians who are middle/ upper class. Mind you Samuel wasn’t always so fortunate. His father died when he was six and his mother had to struggle to raise three children. He decided as a boy that he would study and work hard so his family would not have to live in poverty.
I spent the weekend with Ellen of Chilumba Church, a lady very much on the ball, and well read about the state of Africa and in general—including a biography of Margaret Trudeau! Widowed at 27, one of 7 siblings, 5 of whom died of AIDS, she supported 15 orphaned nieces and nephews through school.
Monday
We’re all ready for today’s visit to another area of the Synod! Today we visit the Livelihood Program, which is one of the programs run by the Development Commission. After introductions by the women and by ourselves, we got underway with a discussion about the effect of climate change on the life and work of these women—all of whom are farmers. The main change—and the challenge—is that they can no longer predict when the rainy season will begin. This greatly affects the timing of their planting and also shortens the growing season and reduces the yield. Most of the farms are about 0.3 hectares and are cultivated by the women for their own family consumption. Irrigation is another challenge; we learned how they build box ridges lined with bricks to contain the water during the rains. They also told us of the soil erosion during the dry season and the serious lack of trees to provide wood for the making of charcoal, which is a source of income for the village.
We provided lunch and then each paired up with one of them and presented them with small gifts—soap, washing powder and three tree saplings each—guava, papaya and mango. They were delighted and sang and danced their thanks to us. It was a heart-warming visit and I hope that our visit has made some positive difference to their group.
Tuesday
Our time in Malawi is growing short. This experience has given us much to ponder and the people we have met have given us memories with mixed emotions.
Today started with introductions to a new guide, Hamilton. He was taking us to visit the Tidzalerana project**—the care of disabled people, young and old. We have seen a bit of how hard life is for the majority of people here in Malawi, but Hamilton told us that having a physical or mental disability makes life even more difficult. This club helps people with disabilities discover that “disability is not inability.” We first visited the new facility being built for this program. It will accommodate 13 handicapped people. In the afternoon we shared in their weekly meeting. We provided supplies and shared some different craft ideas with the participants. It was a fun time for all.
There are contrasts in Malawi, and in the world: rich and poor, black and white, rural and urban. But over and above and through all there is the unity of Christian fellowship. How can we learn to live with the contrasts and the injustices? How can we correct the imbalances? It seems too trite to say: “By recognizing the problem, we are half way to solving it.” But there is truth there. Those who have seen will help others to see and understand. ‘Little by little,’ by working together and responding to God’s call for justice and right relationship, we will find hope. We may need to dig one well at a time, educate one student at a time, support one orphan at a time, but every well that is dug, every student that is educated, and every orphan that finds security, takes us one step closer to achieving our goal of abundant life for all God’s children.
**For more information about this project, check the ‘Gifts of Change’ catalogue.
Members of the Malawi Tour Group: Druse Bryan, Marlene Cribar, Lyn Hill, Laura Kavanaugh, Dineke Kraay, Merry Lidder, Jean MacDonald, Beth McIntosh, Cathy Reid, Marilyn Rowlins, Patricia Shaver.
